Alexandria is my favorite city in Egypt. It is a center of ancient learning, and has always been sort of the equivalent of St. Petersburg-a window to the outside world. You would expect it to be the most modern of Egyptian cities and at least psychologically that is true. But in terms of the infrastructure of a modern city they have a problem. Every time they try to excavate for something new they hit stuff like this:
It dates from the 3rd century AD and appears to have stayed in operation to the end of the Byzantine era. Various sections have been rebuilt after the earthquakes common to this part of the ancient world.
In my discussion of the Odeon at Lyon I suggested that the productions presented were high brow stuff, musical performances and lectures. But some of the graffiti at the Alexandria Odeon appears to relate to political meetings, wrestling matches and to the Blues and Greens, fractious sports enthusiasts whose passions for chariot racing often boiled over to riot and mayhem. Odd that even at the heart of the ancient world's most storied center of learning there was an element of the rude proletariat.
The theater has a marvelous acoustic "sweet spot". When you stand there and speak quietly the echo comes back with perfect fidelity, giving you the disconcerting experience of having yourself whisper directly into both of your own ears!
Addendum: A bit tattered from long use as a bookmark, here is my entry ticket for the theater complex: