Well, at least the small part of Northumbria that I've gotten to know well. These suggestions might come in handy for folks walking or otherwise visiting Hadrian's Wall. No Star ratings or major negatives, just my observations. Each of these places could make for a good experience.
Going from East to West.....
1. Carts Bog Inn. This is way off the beaten path, down to the south of Haydon Bridge. It's been an inn since the 1770's. It got its start, and its name, because carts loaded with ore went down this lonely road...and got stuck in a low spot. The drivers needed a place to collect themselves, perhaps waiting for the equivalent of a tow truck. I'd been wanting to visit the spot for years, and finally managed it in May. It did not disappoint.
The place has retired greyhounds snoozing on cushions. Lots of campy artwork, much of it also dog related.
Really good food. I recommend the Bog Pie. It's a concoction of steak and mushrooms, and it was so tasty it even made mushrooms edible. I hate mushrooms. Another of our party had lamb shank, also good.
Two minor caveats. Only open a couple days a week, and a small place. So call for reservations.
And the beer selection was so-so on our visit. One tap seemed to be "out". They probably do better most nights, it is after all said to be on the location of a brewery from the 1500s!
2. The Bowes Hotel. My home away from home in the UK. Convenient as a place to stay, as there are bus and rail connections right outside the door. A brisk walk up to Vindolanda if someone shows you the sneaky path!* But for food and drink purposes..... I recommend the Cumbrian sausage with mash, and any of the curry dishes they rotate through. The owner's wife is from Thailand, when she's in the kitchen dial your spice request down a notch! For drink I favor Reiver, an ale made about 10 miles to the north.
4. The Milecastle. A long time favorite, this is one of the first places we visited when walking Hadrian's Wall Path. It's a small place, so reservations needed. Very good pies, which of course in the UK will not be apple and lemon meringue sort of stuff.** Nope, steak, poacher's pie, kidney, that sort of thing. The place is no doubt popular with my digger pals due to the proximity of Roman stuff which gives it its name. Supposedly in business since the 1600's, although its not just Roman buildings that come and go. They seem to have a mobile pizza operation that I saw set up this summer, but I did not have a chance to sample this new venture.
5. The Black Bull. Moving just a bit further west and south to the delightfully named Haltwhistle there is a little pub on the back side of the main square. It is what I call a Time Warp establishment. By that I mean it looks and feels just like the pubs you see on Brit TV when they are depicting the 1950s. The owner is ex military. He can be a bit brusque, but switched gears immediately when he noted some "ink" on one of our excavators who was a former British Army sergeant. I've never had food there, but they serve it intermittently. But I very much enjoy the atmosphere and the ale. I suggest Tim Taylor Landlord, although it makes me think of Tim the Tool Man from the old Home Improvements show. He'd find a lot to "fix up" in this ancient building.
Of course your enjoyment of a place will depend on the pleasure of the company you are with...and how badly you need sustenance and perhaps to get in out of the rain. The above list covers quite a few places along the "best" central portion of the Hadrian's Wall Path, but I have not included entire categories, such as tea rooms.
I don't much care for tea and tearooms, but such places will often have sandwiches and so forth. Off the top of my head I can recall places at Chollerford and Greenhead, plus the in house establishments at the "attractions" of Vindolanda, the Roman Army Museum, Housesteads and Birdoswald. There also appear to be various "Honesty Stands" along the walking path where a much needed can of soda could be acquired on the rare days when hot sun is overhead in Northumbria....
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* The owner of The Bowes is happy to arrange pick up and drop off services for guests.
**In the UK "pie" is a rather generic category. For desserts most everything is called a "pudding", although confusingly things like Yorkshire pudding are really what we'd call pop overs. Sticky toffee pudding with custard is recommended highly. I think all the above places could manage a good one.





















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