Friday, May 8, 2026

Back to The Bowes

It's that time again.

Wheels up for the traditional two weeks of excavating at Vindolanda.  This is for Period IV, so a little later than usual.  I've been to P II once or twice, it can be rather chilly.  I've only been to IV once, that great year where I got to stay for two sessions.  

Many of the usual crew of folks will be on hand.  Selection of a digging time is not done in isolation.

So at some point in the weird time shifting of international travel I'll be arriving at my home away from home, The Bowes.

I actually can't recall when I first stepped in the place.  It was one of the years I traveled alone, and decided to take the train out of Newcastle.  I got off at Bardon Mill, and had a goodly walk ahead of me.  I distinctly remember thinking it would be good to fortify myself with a pint before slogging a couple of miles with all my kit.  This would have been roughly eleven years ago, back when we were still staying at The Twice Brewed Inn.  But did I actually do this or just think about it?  When you've been traveling for 18 straight hours and across six or seven time zones the details get fuzzy.

But for sure a year or so later several of us did stop in.  Big Steve, former barkeep at the Twicey, was now in charge at The Bowes.  He showed us around.  At this point the bar area had been remodeled nicely.  The rooms upstairs, not so much.  They were still very 1960's.  Steve said he'd get us a "diggers rate".  I thought it was a great opportunity.  Some of my cohorts were skeptical.

Fast forward a bit.  The Twice Brewed went full posh gastro pub, and the digger's discount rate there finally went away.  It was time for a change.  The Bowes had been fully remodeled, and we'd been there for a nice evening with great food.  I was all set to be staying there in 2020.  Then of course, Covid shut the world down.  No digging season in '20.  For '21 I just missed the slow, grudging loosening of restrictions.  Even in '22, my first year staying at The Bowes, there were still pesky requirements for testing and such.

This will be my/our fifth stay there.  I highly recommend it.  Friendly staff, really great food.  I like being able to enjoy a pint or two then just go up the stairs to my room.  

A fun day excavating - with or without finds - a nice walk back through English springtime. Then a spicy Masaman curry with a couple of pints.  It does not get much better than that...

I shall report back presently on assorted doing, including the annual Jet Lag Drinks Hour.






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