Detritus and Victorian Scandal at Gilsland Spa

For part of my stay in northern England I was outside the village of Gilsland.  It is a community that reminds one of a kid wearing hand me down clothes a couple of sizes too big.  This often happens when early prosperity and popularity wane.  You end up with shops, homes and public spaces grander than a farm based economy would seem to require.  

Usually it is something along the lines of a mine or factory closing down.  But in the case of Gilsland it reflects the fact that people no longer travel to rustic settings to "take the waters".

It is my intent to show rather than describe the history, but in brief here's what happened.  In the  1700's it was noted that there were mineral springs along the scenic River Irthing.  Entrepreneurs established hostelries and upper class folks started coming to promenade the grounds, drink and bath in mineral infused waters, meet like minded folk, etc.  A tiny hamlet nearby was renamed Gilsland and a rail station was established.  (Since discontinued, and they are still steamed about it).  

The spa just north of town had its heyday in the 19th and early 20th century.  As the latter century rolled on an assortment of other functions were also tried.  It was a hospital for servicemen in WW I.  A maternity hospital, presumably for evacuated families, in WW II.  I've heard it was a mental health facility for a while.  

There were ongoing attempts to revive it as a high end spa.  Superficially this makes sense, as people with disposable income still seem inclined towards yoga, crystals, mudpacks, massages and so forth.  But economically it is a white elephant....a huge building that must cost a fortune to heat and cool.  And it was competing in a world where global travel had become cheap and easy.  If you are going to be pampered why not do it in tropical splendor somewhere?

So Gilsland Spa is now closed, in limbo while the latest in a succession of owners tries to find a viable use for it.  

But the grounds are open, and strolling about is actually encouraged.  Come along on a journey of discovery.  Your reward for making it to the end will be an enigmatic bit of salacious Victorian mystery featuring Sir Walter Scott.

The main spa building, May of 2022.  There were earlier structures that have not survived the test of time. 

For those so inclined, and of course that would be me, the sulphur spring is still trickling forth.  The stuff smells like rotten eggs but actually tastes....well also like rotten eggs.

I like the small discoveries.  The original pipe would have been metal and would have caked up with gunk all the time.  The new one is plastic.  See also the stone font suggesting a latter day renovation.  Somewhere up the slope is another spring this one of iron containing "Chalybete" waters.  I should have done a bit more research in advance of my trip, a taste comparison would be in order.

Very pretty paths and a view of the river.  You could once sit and contemplate.  The remaining ghosts who still do so probably find this bench to be just fine, thanks.

Near the river I came across this....the ruins of a big swimming pool.  I assume it was for bathing in the "waters".  I was also doing a bit of geocaching and I'm pleased to report that a cache was hidden in here.

This seems to be some sort of pump house designed to bring water up to the main hotel on the ridge above.  Oddly it is not close to the mineral springs but to the river.  Maybe plain old river water is healthy too.

OK, lets get right to it.  The most interesting spot on the grounds of the Gilsland Spa is the Popping Stone.  Supposedly this is a particularly romantic spot where Victorian era gents would take the objects of their affections and sit them down on the stone....then propose marriage.  Most famously this was done by Sir Walter Scott, in 1797, long before he was a literary figure. 

There is actually a lot more to the story, and I refer you to this excellent source for a comprehensive discussion.   Basically the "Popping Stone" became famous by obscure means.  The story of Walter Scott's successful Proposal did not come to light until long after the event.  Indeed, the Popping Stone is not alluded to until 1841 or specifically named in print until the 1860s, some 70 years after the future Mrs. Scott said yes.  But is it a complete fiction, made up by hotel proprietors?

Probably not.  It seems likely that the story of the stone built on an unwritten earlier tradition that was a bit saucy for its times.  The key elements being:

1. This spot is not anywhere near the main grounds of the hotel(s).  No, you and your lady friend would be taking a long trek to a very secluded spot.  A spot indeed where it would be nearly impossible for anyone to come upon you unawares.

2. There was also a nearby hawthorn tree of considerable antiquity.  It was called "The Kissing Bush".

3. The Popping stone has undergone various changes over the course of its notoriety.  It is unclear whether its current configuration - two smaller round boulders at the base of a longer, oblong one - has been altered to make it less phallic in its appearance or more so!

Here it is in May of 2022.  I'll let you decide.

All things considered the Popping Stone does seem more like a place where romantically inclined couples might retreat for a decidedly non Victorian tryst.  After being helped over numerous high and low spots on the winding riverside trail a maiden of pristine virtue would have had plenty of opportunities to raise questions about their destination.  Then, after a brief stop at the Kissing Bush, the arrival at a scenic, secluded glade featuring a gigantic phallus would have obvious implications.  Oh, I don't doubt plenty of engagements happened on this spot, but how many one wonders were of the "Make an Honest Woman of Her" variety!

As I was traveling solo on this trip - my first day in England actually being our 40th Wedding Anniversary - I felt obligated to attempt a selfie on bended knee with The Popping Stone in the background.  I'm quite sentimental after all.